Clustered on the east coast of Scotland are seven tidal pools. These seawater swimming holes are the perfect harnessing of nature, and show how communities have found ways to immerse themselves in their environment for generations. St Monans, for example, sits where the North Sea beats ferociously against the cliffs and much of the coastline is inaccessible—this rectangular body of water, however, offers a safe swim. Traveling between these tidal pools on a road trip is about so much more though. It’s an adventure connecting witch folklore, dolphin spotting, forest bathing, rock ‘n’ roll legends, fly fishing, and the most delicious smoked haddock soup you’ve ever eaten.
In 2021, I spent a year swimming in Britain’s tidal pools. For me, they represented a safe place to swim in turbulent waters, and, after my brother died in 2016, a way to process my grief. When I started on the adventure, I thought it was the cold sea water that was so healing, but in retrospect I realize it was also the connections with others I made along the way. Because for local communities, tidal pools represent a tie to previous generations and the way they have long lived in harmony with the coastal landscape. When you swim in these pools, there’s something vaster than the self.
The route below, stretching over six days, maps out a drive between some of the highlights discovered during my year of tidal pool swimming. For you, this journey might be a way to connect with forgotten family history, explore outdoor swimming for the first time, or simply see a new side of Scotland. Whatever aspect is calling you, this road trip has plenty to offer.
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The trip
Five days, roughly 415 miles
When to go
This route evolves throughout the year. November is gorgeous with the coastline turning auburn and topped with gold-bannered skies. You’ll earn evenings of fires and whiskey, but it’s also chilly. If you want warmer water, plan for spring when sea thrift turns the coastal paths pink. Avoid the height of summer when more visitors—and midges—descend on Scotland. Just be prepared that water temperatures in this corner of the world are hardly tropical, even in summer (a number of apps make it easy to track the ocean temperature whenever you visit, which is especially helpful when determining if you should pack a wetsuit).
What to know
Tidal pools are natural coastal pools that fill with seawater on an ebbing tide. What makes them unique compared to ‘seapools,’ which naturally occur when ocean water fills pool-like rock formations, is that these pools include a man-made element. Imagine metal steps, ladders, or the simple addition of a concrete wall. Often created by communities as a protected place to teach children to swim, these are safe spaces for enjoying wild waters. Because they’re semi-natural they’re free and always open. However, at high tide, water covers the pool wall—be sure to visit at low tide to admire them at their best. (Local tide times are easily found online.) Many tidal pools have a plaque with information on their history, but you can also count on locals in the nearest pub to fill in any gaps.
How to get there
Fly via Inverness or the Edinburgh airport where you can hire a rental car. You’ll want a relatively rugged vehicle that can take on wind-lashed coastal roads.
